Let’s fix that Front Wheel Hub and Axle
lonestar245 » When removing the drivers side drive shaft, it has a ring inside that holds the shaft in place, and requires some force to remove the drive shaft. The factory calls for using “jimmy tools”- which are like long handled screwdrivers with the flat blades bent to 90º. You slide the bits between the shaft and the transmission on two sides and pry the tools till it pops the shaft out.
Someone somewhere suggested attaching a slide hammer to the end of the drive shaft, but that can cause the inner boot to pull off- which is all that hold this joint together- leaving you with just the inner stub of the drive shaft in the transmission, and not much to get hold of. That is exactly what happened to me when I didn’t have the factory jimmy tools.
I thought about this for a moment, and realized I had a pry bar on hand like this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ … _200344794
Even though I could only get hold of one side (just one pry bar on hand), it worked perfectly.
I am fairly well convinced that the whole front end of a Volvo S80 needs to be replaced at one time- as I have done most of the following replacements to my 2002 non-turbo over the last 10k miles or so, much of it needing to be done since I got the car at 99k miles. All parts removed were marked “Volvo” so I assume they were OE:
both struts- one was leaking and had not pressure at all
both strut bearings- mine are still in, but I can tell they are somewhat dry and “loose”- making a bit of noise when rotated
both strut mounts- one had the center worn out to an oblong hole, letting the strut move back and forth
both control arms- rubber bushings were shot all around
both sway bar links- one worn and noisy
both front brake rotors (and pads)- and I think I have a sticking caliper
one front wheel bearing was quite noisy and showed excessive run-out, including brake pulsing
both drive shafts- both developed leaks- passenger had torn inner boot, driver was just leaking between big end and drive shaft
So, that leaves the rubber bump stops on the struts and strut dust shields (obviously worn, but serviceable), both strut bearings, one wheel bearing/hub, and one sway bar link that have not been replaced. As well as the brake calipers.
I used Moog strut mounts and sway bar link- lifetime warranty; Monroe OE Spectrum struts- lifetime warranty; NAPA wheel bearing- 1 year warranty; NAPA rotors and pads- 1 year warranty; O’Rielly Auto drive shafts- lifetime warranty; FCP Groton control arms- lifetime warranty. Price was always a consideration, balanced against warranty and perceived quality of brand name.
S80 Front Wheel Hub and Axle Change
Save hundreds by changing that bad hub or driveshaft yourself.
The Volvo S80
The Volvo S80 is an executive car produced by the Swedish manufacturer Volvo Cars from 1998 to 2016 across two generations. It took the place of the rear-wheel-drive S90 as Volvo’s flagship sedan.
The first generation (1998–2006) was made available for the 1999 model year. It has since been built at the Torslanda Works in Gothenburg, Sweden, with a few 1999 model year cars for the North American market built at Volvo’s Halifax Assembly plant. Unlike most Volvo models, it did not have a station wagon version for its first generation.
The second generation (2006–2016) was released in 2006 as a model year 2007 car. It has an estate version, the third generation of the Volvo V70. In June 2007, the S80 scored the highest “good” rating in the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) crash test performance for frontal, side, and rear impacts, earning it the IIHS Top Safety Pick.
The model was replaced by the second generation S90 in the later half of 2016.
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Last Updated on June 2, 2021
