Volvo 850 S2 Transmission Shift Solenoid Replacement w/Pics

donc » This is a write-up on how I changed my S2 transmission shift solenoid in my 1997 850 GLT Wagon with Automatic. I performed this job with a mechanic buddy of mine on a lift and by dropping down, but not totally removing the front sub-frame. I read about people going in through the top under the battery tray and now know that this would be a tougher method to get to all nine transmission cover bolts.

Additionally, after the cover is removed and cleaned of the old gasket sealant, you still have to get the cover with the new sealant applied back on straight the FIRST time and get your bolts back in. While all this is happening no matter how well you clean off the valve body under the cover, it will keep dripping right onto the area that you want dry for the new sealant, so seconds count.

Note: I understand that people have indicated that S1 and S2 are the same solenoid. Even FCP Euro indicates this. All I can say is that on my 1997 850GLT Automatic, the S1 solenoid has the electrical connector facing AWAY from the O- ring and has an extended bolt hole for the hold down screw. It also has a black connector where the S2 is green. You will thank yourself later that you had the right parts and plenty of shop towels beforehand. Also use Permatex Ultra Black oil resistant gasket sealant or factory sealant from your friendly Volvo parts counter.

Incidentally, I did this fun project because I had a flashing arrow of doom and a check engine light on and the car was in limp mode. Going to the Volvo dealer with an active check engine light gets you a free scheduled 1- hour code reading, 222 Shift Solenoid B malfunction in this case. You get just a code reading and not a single thing more, except the recommendation to schedule a new transmission installation.

Using the below described method, it took us about 3.5 hours to get access to the solenoid, about five minutes to remove S1 and S2 and check the resistance for 10-15 ohms, replace out of spec solenoids, and about 2 hours to reassemble and refill fluid to proper level. Incidentally, the resistance for the lock-up should also be 10-15 ohms and for the line pressure solenoid should be 2-6 ohms.

Volvo 850 S2 Transmission Solenoid Replacement w/Pics

Ok, ready set go…Use liberal amounts of PB Blaster or WD-40 on all screws, bolts, etc to be disconnected.

Repeat: Use liberal amounts of PB Blaster or WD-40 on all screws, bolts, etc to be disconnected.
Disconnect battery and remove it and the tray. There is an emission pump connected under the battery tray with vacuum and electrical connectors to be unhooked.

Next unhook the hold down for the black corrugated wire tube at the side of the transmission cover. Also, unscrew the transmission cooler line that connects to the top of the cover you are about to remove. I think it is just as easy to remove the hold down for the blue battery to engine ground from up here.
Support engine and transmission from above. Here I used two 4×4 blocks with grooves cut on the table saw to sit in the channels of the front fenders. I used a steel 2×4 sitting on top of these blocks to bear the weight. The jacks in the front do not support weight, but keep the steel 2×4 from slipping forward. We wrapped a chain around the steel 2×4 and hooked onto a lift bracket over by the power steering pump and another near the top engine mount.

Remove front wheels for weight and access, unbolt the steering rack from the sub-frame, transmission mount to sub-frame, motor mount bolt to sub-frame, lower stabilizer links to sway bar, front charcoal canister and bolt to sub-frame, and free up hoses and electrical wires and connectors that clip to the sub-frame.

Make sure you remove the two bolts in the right side motor mount under the belt pulleys.

Yea, also unplug that little electrical connector at the front of the sub-frame.
We used a transmission jack with a 4×4 strapped across it to gently lower the sub-frame after we removed the two rear plates to the sub-frame bolts, the rear sub-frame bolts themselves, and the front sub-frame bolts. The sub-frame will drop about a foot and be held up by the lower A-arms.

Disconnect the lower transmission to cooler line at the transmission and move it to the left.

Next: The transmission fluid temperature sensor connects below the cover and the wire runs along the left side of the cover and is in the way. Fortunately, if you follow the wire up and across the cover there is excess that is zip tied together. Clip the zip tie and feed extra wire down so you can move this out of the way. You will be glad you did!

These bolts are tough to get out because the torx is shallow, they are rusted in my case, and they are in with Locktite. Eight of the nine came out in varying degrees of effort and the ninth on the bottom of the pan needed a hammer and chisel to help it get loose. Take your time, spray the bolts and go have a cup of coffee.

Next my buddy and I tried various techniques before the hammer and chisel came out for the last cover bolt. Also see the big rubber air hose right above his hand? Removing this from the radiator area as well as the hard plastic tube going up allows you to bungee the lower radiator forward and out of the way when replacing the cover.

The solenoids are easy. Have the new ones on the bench. See how they are held down by one bolt each. Test the resistance and replace. Notice how the valve body keeps dripping fluid. See the easy access and why you want to be in this position when the cover is gooped up with sealant and you have to get it right the first time. It will drip at the very bottom of the valve body and you have about 10 seconds from wipe to place before the next drip comes. This is where the leak will occur if you don’t get it right.

Look at the above picture. See the fluid temperature sensor and wire running along the left side? You need to have this out of the way to get the best, one shot deal, reassembly of the cover to the transmission.

Reassemble in the order removed.
Back in service! This whole exercise is about the involved procedure of getting access to perform this very easy replacement of a faulty transmission solenoid. Just take your time and this will be a one day repair. Use plenty of PB Blaster or WD-40 on EVERY bolt you turn. That’s it really. Start and run for a minute and shut off. Check and fill fluid as necessary. Start again and run in drive and reverse just enough to get the fluid into the valve body again. Check fluid with engine running and top off as necessary. Go for a test drive and enjoy your car again!

polskamafia mjl » And looks like Trans Parts Direct carries the right one. I emailed them and am waiting on a response to see if they confirm my suspicion that this is the correct replacement for the S1 solenoid:

It is part number 5040310002N.

Volvo 850 S2 Transmission Solenoid Replacement w/Pics

Last Updated on September 14, 2022