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Bad Alternator Symptoms

Let’s talk Bad Alternator Symptoms

viper69 »

My car wouldn’t turn over at all today. It was dead, interior lights barely on. The battery is 12 months old to the day. I don’t live in a state where there is cold temperature (less than 45F at night during winter as average), nor extreme summer heat or humidity.

I have noticed in the past 3-5 weeks I would come out and start my car for the first time (morning or night didn’t matter when I started) after the previous night, it would turn over just fine. However, after putting into 1st gear and applying some gas, it would seem as if the car was going to stall sort of. I wouldn’t do anything different, I’d push down on accelerator pedal and I was off, no problem. This would not repeat itself until the next day, or some days later perhaps. The interval of this repeating itself seemed random.Tonight, I got a jump from AAA. The guy tested the battery, no dead cells, he tested alternator, appears fine. He put some jumper device on the terminals, car turned over/started on the first go. I’m not saying the alternator isn’t bad, just reporting what I was told.

viper69, again »

Well I brought the car into Volvo, battery was dead again. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a chance to check the battery terminals before it was jumped.

Car wasn’t driven for 2 days, battery dead. Same as before, AAA arrives car starts with a quick jump. I drove the car for an hour. Then brought it to my Volvo guy. Hopefully they can figure out what the problem is. They are going to do an AVR test. Amps/Voltage/Resistance diagnostic. I hope they find something. If they don’t..crap!

He hooked up some sort of meter from Interstate Battery.

Battery had a 675 CCA, with 12.49V if I read the digital printout correctly. In short, battery good.

Then did a start test and a charging system test w/the same hand held Interstate unit.

Charging System report, no problems.
No Load 13.53V, at Load 13.44V

Solution: New Alternator

viper69 »

instarx wrote:

Who found the problem, the dealer? That’s why it’s so expensive, but after all you went through I’m sure you are just happy to have it fixed. And since it was the original 15 year old alternator that failed you’re probably not feeling too bad about that either. It gave you a good run.
The alternator on my 2000 was replaced after eight years by the original owner.

No, my mechanic found the problem..Not the stealership, I never go there anymore, that was years ago.

confused_al »

viper69 wrote:

why is the alternator so expensive WOW

I don’t know how much you paid for yours but $220 is what you can get a Bosch reman one: autohausaz.com

viper69 wrote:

What’s the accepted range in amps for an alternator?

“OUTPUT TEST
1) Ensure connections at battery, generator, and starter are
clean and tight. Ensure generator, engine and body are properly
grounded. Ensure generator drive belt is tight and in good condition.
2) Connect ammeter following manufacturer’s instructions.
Connect voltmeter leads to battery terminals. 

Run engine to 2000 RPM.
Adjust carbon pile on tester until voltmeter reads 12 volts. Generator
output should be 49-55 amps. (55-amp generator), 63-70 amps (70-amp
generator), 31-80 amps (80-amp generator), 81-90 amps (90-amp
generator).
 If generator output is low, replace generator.”

’95 850GLT Bad Alternator Symptoms


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Last Updated on August 5, 2026

2 Comments

I had a lucky troubleshoot today on my 1996 850GLT wagon with 138,000 miles. After a long trip with the AC running, my battery went dead. I was ready to buy a new alternator for ~$250 but that wouldn’t have fixed the problem. After a jump, with the car running, the battery terminals read 12V and yet the alternator terminals read 14V. I cleaned the battery terminals but that didn’t change anything. I then noticed the battery terminal clamps were getting very hot (>220F) where the cable meets the terminal clamp (the OEM charging and starter cables are crimped to a brass terminal clamp which attaches to the battery post). It turned out there was about a 1V drop between the copper cable and the terminal clamp on both the Positive and the Ground sides of the battery. The fix was $10 worth of terminal clamps I spliced onto the cables. The original terminal clamps looked fine and were without obvious corrosion but they were far from OK. A 1V drop with an alternator generating (say) 50Amps is 50 Watts. It made enough heat so it was too hot to touch. That was a clue that saved me $240 or more. Thanks to all on this site.

mr_dave

well a couple days ago on my 95 850 turbo wagon i hadnt had any problems with my car but i stop in front of the parts store and the radio kept cutting on and off and the tcs and abs light flashed on and on and when i truned it off and went to turn it back on the car was dead i mean dead didnt even click when i turned the ign. so i got a jump thought it was fine when i got home did the same thing charged the battery on a tricle charger for 24 hours on 2amps and put it in the car took it and got the car tested batterey good and alt. bad

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