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240 Alternator Replacement

Let’s talk 240 Alternator Replacement

There is no tensioner per se on the 240. The tensioning is done by moving the alternator. At the top of the alternator there is a tensioning arm with an elongated hole in it. There is a square necked screw which goes through the arm and fastens to the alternator. At the end of the arm there is an adjusting screw. As you are removing the alternator forget about the adjusting screw. Slacken the nut on the square necked screw and push the alternator to the side, releasing the tension. If the alternator won’t move, loosen the flange screw underneath the alternator until it will. With the belt off remove the wires from the back of the alternator, making sure you know which goes where. Remove the two bolts you have loosened and remove the alternator.

240 DL 1989 Alternator replacement

Bonus! More on the Volvo 240

For model year 1983, the emblem at the rear of all 240 models was changed. No longer did it say 242, 244 or 245. The badge just said 240, as part of a new designation strategy. In reality, however, most people continued to refer to their cars as a 244 or 245.

This change did not mean any large-scale modification to the cars.

For more information, please see the relevant models; 242, 244 or 245.

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1 Comment

Andrew Lisenby says:

There is a problem on the older 240 series, 1984 B23F I know from personal experience, with the ground not being intact between the alternator and the metal grounding point. Please check the wiring loom before you re-install your new alternator for a good grounding wire, or you’ll be wondering why your Swede won’t crank when you’ve just replaced the alternator. If worst comes to worst, you can create a temporary ground for the alternator with a piece of copper wire. Connect one end to a good unpainted ground near the alternator(strut towers will do), and the other to the attachment bolt on the alternator mounting bracket itself. This will suffice until you can get it properly fixed.

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