Volvo 850 Front Suspension Rebuild

1). Do I need to remove the spindle/hub from the control arm to remove the cv axle? I loosened the pinch bolt but didn’t separate.

Ozark Lee » You can separate it at the ball joint or remove the two bolts and remove the control arm from the frame. It comes down to what the condition of the control arm is. I have never been able to get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle without destroying the rubber cover on the ball joint. If my control arm is good I remove it at the frame. Once the bottom of the steering knuckle is free (either with or without the control arm hooked to it) you can swing it out far enough to remove the axle.

2). I’ve heard that there are 2 types of control arms. I ordered the bushing set but from what I can tell this won’t work? Why would FCP sell this kit then? What are the signs of a control arm needing replacement? 

There are two types, the ’93 / early ’94 version which is an aluminum arm that has replaceable ball joints and bushings and the later version which is a steel control arm that doesn’t have replaceable components. The signs that they need to be replaced are any movement in the ball joint or in the bushings.

3). The older inner tie rod doesn’t have the wrench indentations like the replacement. Does this item still unscrew from the steering rack? Do I simply put the pipe wrench on the round outer section and grind on it until it loosens?

That is the way to do it.

4). The Haynes manual that I have doesn’t mention the re-torque specs for the steering and suspension items. Am I missing something here?

See Page 8-1 and pages 10-2 and 10-3 for most of them. I can’t find a spec. for the inner tie rod.

5). The drivers caliper has a section of the dust boot protruding out. I wasn’t able to tuck that section back in. My pads were completely gone so the piston was pretty far out. Is this boot situation something I need to worry about?

So long as it seals well I would say no but they are cheap and easy to replace.

Brandonium » Thank you! I have one additional question. I started tearing down the front suspension and steering before I knew that I was going to do a CV axle replacement. With that being said, I was trying to break the axle nut loose and it won’t budge. It spins the passenger side wheel even though it’s on the ground. What minimal components can I put back on that would allow me to put the wheel back on and apply vehicle weight to it. This would allow me to break it free. What I have removed so far is:

1). Inner/Outer Tie Rod
2). Sway bar link
3). Caliper with mounting brace
4). Pinch bolt for hub to control arm
5). Rotor
6). Rotor dust shield
I was thinking that if I re-install the pinch bolt as well as mount the strut to the hub I should be ok? Any input is welcome.

Ozark Lee » Try just jamming a brick or part of a concrete block in behind the tire. It may want to wobble around on you without the tie rods hooked up but you can put them back on hand tight to stabilize things. If you have not popped the ball joint out of the steering knuckle yet the pinch bolt will make no difference – it may actually help to free it up.

It takes a metric butt load of force to crack the axle nut free. A good impact and compressor will often do it but my compressor has a small tank (great for a nail gun) and I wound up buying a 3/4″ drive socket set from Harbor Freight and put a 6′ pipe on it to get them free.

Volvo 850 Front Suspension Rebuild

Last Updated on July 24, 2024