JimBee » This question has been in my mind since I harvested a pretty clean looking Bosch camshaft position sensor a few years ago. Unfortunately, somebody had cut the lead midway to the plug, so the plug part is missing. Now, that I’ve had one fail, I have a complete CPS with its lead intact. So, the question again: what if I snip the lead from my defunct CPS and solder onto what might be, judging by its appearance, a well functioning Bosch CPS?
I suppose the signal from the CPS is quite meager since its wires are very skinny. I wouldn’t want the quality of the signal, which probably goes through the brain, to be compromised.
BEJinFbk » As long as you have clean copper, good quality 60/40 rosin core solder ( I prefer a smaller diameter, like .031″ ) and can handle a soldering iron, this should be a non-issue.
The shrink goes on first! Ask me how I know… Try to use a good quality, dual-wall polyolefin shrink tube with an internal, hot melt adhesive to keep your completed solder joint high and dry.
Be sure you have a tightly and neatly twisted joint with no frayed ends. A good solder joint depends on starting with a solid mechanical connection.
If you have a set of alligator clip “third hands”, break’em out and secure your work to hold it still.
If not – Don’t forget the MVS Amazon link: https://amzn.to/3GKkXeo
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adju … 1_7?sr=8-7
Then clean the hot iron tip on a damp sponge or paper towel, wet it with a very small amount of solder, then apply that small ball of hot solder to your work for initial heat transfer, carefully feeding just enough additional solder to “round off” the joint. The closer you can keep your joint’s overall diameter to the insulation’s OD, the better.
To avoid melting the insulation, don’t leave the heat on your joint any longer than you need to for a clean joint. Get the shrink placed quickly.
If you haven’t done this a lot, there’s no shame in a few practice joints with scraps.
