Parts/Tools:
How to replace your Volvo V70 Ignition Switch
You will need:
1. A Volvo V70 Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion is PN 9447804, $50 at Volvo dealer. Do not use an aftermarket part).
2. Ignition Tumbler Assembly (where you insert the key, Volvo PN is 8626325). I bought it for $210 from (ordered Monday and got it by Fedex on Saturday, wow fast service!):
Don Snyder
Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 Direct
Tel. 1-800-679-6124
Fax 615-599-6253
[email protected]
3. Tools:
– Torx set
– “Trim” Hammer (this hammer is used for carpentry trim job) is useful in this tight space
– 1/32” Nail Set
– Flat Screwdriver.
If you need to replace your Volvo V70 ignition switch, I’ve got you covered. My car is a 1998 Volvo V70 with 106K miles with an ignition switch and cylinder lock that needs to be replaced.
Symptoms:
- Sometimes I cannot crank the engine. After wiggling the key a few times, then I can start the engine. It was intermittent, then it became permanent.
- The key can turn to Position I and Position II but not Position III (crank).
- Initially, I thought it was the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion to the left of Steering Column), which was replaced, but I still had the same symptoms! It turned out to be the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key).
read more
ecbsykes wrote:
“Great Write-Up.
Do you know if this procedure (even the steering wheel non-removal) would be more or less the same for a 2000 XC? The other write-ups I’ve seen make this look like a bear of an ordeal…”
cn90 wrote:
“I’d think 2000 XC has very similar if not the same setup as
1998 Volvo V70. It is very easy to find out, simply remove the Upper and Lower Covers and peek in there to see the Shear Bolts.
Just go to a Volvo parts website and enter PN 8626325. And you will see this PN is listed for 1998 through 2004. So I assume the procedure is the same for 2000 XC. If and whenever you replace your Ignition Tumbler Assembly, take a few pics and post them here just in case others need them”
Go to:
http://www.volvowholesaleparts.com/part … eid=213784
DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock
Last Updated on August 8, 2022
1 Comment
Finally bit the bullet and changed out the lock cylinder on my 98 XC. It started acting up about a year ago, and after reading this tutorial then, I ordered a replacement cylinder assembly. For various reasons, I kept putting off doing the work, mainly because I found that as long as I kept a key in the cylinder all the time, I did not have any problems with jamming or freewheeling. I would leave the car locked with a spare key in the ignition.
In the last few days through, it has started acting up again. Figuring my luck had run out, and finally having some free time, I decided to get-er-done.
I basically followed this tutorial, but went in to the job prepared to drill out the shear bolts. At first I tried using some screw extraction bits, but I stripped out the screws with the extractor, probably form overtorque from my 1/2 inch drill.
Used a right angle drill adapter with my drills, none of which could line up properly by themselves due to the overhang of the dash. The adapter was 20 bucks at Home Depot.
Some other observations/lessons learned:
You need a very short right angle Torx key for the airbag clock spring screws due to a lack of clearance behind the steering wheel if it is left in place as recommended by this tutorial. Not to bad coming out, but were really tough to get started going back in. I had to use some small needle nose pliers to slowly rotate the head on the inboard screw until I was finally able to get my right angle Torx key in there. A very tiny Torx ratchet would be just the thing for these, but I could not fine one small enough.
The two holes for the ignition switch retainer screws on the new cylinder carrier casting had not been tapped. When I first saw this, I thought I was in trouble. However, the screws I removed from the original casting had self tapping threads and went in to the new casting just fine. The casting metal (pot metal) is very soft, and tapped easily. It also drilled out easily when I was drilling out the two shear bolts.
A 3/8″ cold chisel was helpful in breaking the two halves of the original casting apart and getting the last bits of the shear bolts out. I was amazed at how easily it would bite into the soft pot metal of the castings. At first I thought the castings were made of aluminum, but the drill chips were magnetic!