MVS Contributor Eric aka deepsouth posts a DIY tutorial on replacing the evap J-hose on a 2001 XC-70, including photos:
“Recently changed the evap J-Hose on a 2001 Volvo XC70 AWD. I’ve changed evap hoses on all forms of S/V70’s and 850’s but this was a new form of hell. The charcoal canister is above the rear suspension and fuel tank and is completely inaccessible from below.
In fact, most shops–including the dealer–state that the rear suspension has to be removed and the job bills out at well over a grand.
Undeterred, I set about accessing the hose from the top by cutting through the rear of the wagon with a Dremel tool. I was able–after many setbacks and much frustration–to access the hose and replace it. I riveted sheet metal over my cut, painted it with bed-liner coating and RTV’d the seams. All told the job took around five hours and saved countless dollars. For what it’s worth, I did post in the 2001 XC70 forum asking for advice regarding this job but no takers–perhaps because many folks would rather live with the DTC than undertake this beast of a job.
Final thoughts? This is a real PITA and it’s incomprehensible how much more difficult the 2001 XC70 canister is to access than all prior year models. I still maintain that accessing it from the top is easier than from the bottom and can’t even imagine dropping the rear suspension to complete a 10 minute hose swap. All told I spent about $25 bucks on parts (sheet metal, rivets, RTV, and hose) and it took about three or four hours–most of which was spent using Dremel tool to cut access points and cutting sheet metal to repair.
I also made the maddening mistake of disconnecting the rear seat airbag before disconnecting the battery, thus triggering the SRS light that–from what I understand–must be taken to Volvo to reset. It’s surprising to me that astonishing lack of information on swapping this hose as it’s so much different and more difficult than all prior years. I hope this write-up helps folks in a similar position.”
Procedure
First, for what it’s worth, the 2001 J-Hose is longer than the standard hose. It’s Volvo part number 9155990 and the hose is several inches longer than the mid/late 90’s hose. Here’s the 2001 hose.
Next, I cut a hole to access the bottom part of the hose–using a standard Dremel Tool and cutting wheels.
Next came the tricky part. Accessing the top of the charcoal canister (where the J Part of the hose lives) requires cutting through the top layer and then another about five inches deeper. This was the most difficult part of the job as the seat-back bracket landed square in the middle of the section that needed to be cut out. It was necessary to remove the rear seats (disconnecting the rear airbags as well). The top cut had to be much larger than the needed second cut in order to actually get the Dremel tool in a position to effectively make the required cut. This was a real PITA.
Once the hole was made it was fairly easy to remove the rotten hose and install the new one–about ten minutes work. The old hose was riddled with cracks.
Next, I took an old piece of sheet metal (actually an old Duralast Battery sign) and cut it to fit. I riveted it in place with 3/16 Aluminum rivets.
Finally, I coated the metal with truck bed lining and soundproofing, and spread RTV around the seams to finish the job. It turned out really well.
Once dry I reattached the rear seats (another PITA) and tightened everything back down. Bingo. Job complete.


3 Comments
HOLY F*CK! WITH ALL DUE RESPECT YOU ARE A FREAKING BUTCHER FROM BAGDAD! I’VE WORKED ON VOLVO’S SINCE THE EARLY 90’S AND I HAVE NEVER SEEN SUCH BUCHERY! ITS A RATHER SIMPLE (YET TIME CONSUMING) REPAIR. YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE EXHUAST OUT, REMOVE THE CANISTER, INSTALL THE NEW HOSE ON THE CANISTER AND REINSTALL THE CANISTER WITH THE HOSE ATTACHED, THEN CLAMP ON THE SHUT OFF VALVE! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! WHY ON EARTH DID YOU CUT THE FREAKING BODY??? THAT IS INSANE!!!
When I removed rear seats on my ’04 XC70, I had to drive it to shop for smoke test (to pin down EVAP leak). Starting the engine with rear seats unplugged deposited an SRS code that wouldn’t go away by re-installing the seats.
Therefore, it’s a good idea to disconnect battery power while doing this repair, a reminder not to start car.
Thanks for the good advice, pbierre.