Looking to make a used Volvo purchase?
Volvo Reliability vs. Japanese Manufacturers’ Reliability
Car companies seem to be cheaping out on a lot of things these days. Sometimes it seems like they dont want cars to make it to 200,000 miles without tons of repairs so people will buy new cars quicker. I thought Toyota was supposed to be reliable, but I just heard of someone who had the rear end blow out in less than 30,000 miles with normal driving. G.M. got rid of the extremely reliable 3800, Jeep no longer has the bullet proof 4.0 straight 6 engine, it even seems like Honda has been going to different engines in the new cars. I think its getting harder and harder to find any car that is built like a tank anymore, I think I will stay with the older cars.
Sperry » My ’94 850 Turbo was purchased for $2750, with 80,000 miles on it.
The Defroster didn’t work. “Just went out. It comes and goes. Probably a connection”
The REC light was flashing, a trouble code. The ECC was fried. $75 for a salvaged control.
The tires were worn on the inner edges. “Just needs new tires”
New tires, ball joints, alignment, and a bunch of other stuff. $800.
I later did the struts [with related parts] and the shocks. $800
Ignition switch went, but I got home. $70
Better tires after 40,000. $650
Radiator cooling fan went. $65 salvage part.
If you can’t fix the little stuff yourself, you better have money.
A local guy has spent a fortune getting his ’95 Turbo to 100%, all with garage parts & labor.
Timing belt is due. Door check just broke; 30 minutes to remove; no replacement just yet.
Rear speaker is out [I’m trying to get the old one out]. $
Climate blower fan intermittent. I’m taking it out today. $40 salvaged.
As JRL would put it, every car will want $800-$2000 in work.
The easy thing to spot is a T-Belt replacement, with sticker on cover.
If it wasn’t done, that may be the first thing you want to do, although mine is overdue.
Front end diving, new struts. A little pricy, but they last.
Rear tires choppy, shocks.
The cars generally run a long time, and I’ll get another when mine dies.
It shifts so solidly and perfectly, I might be waiting a long time. Everything else may break first.
2001 was a nasty year, but some people swear by their ’01 models.
Too many new sensors, bad transmissions, bad 4WD transfer cases.
I plan on buying a ’97 850 or a ’97-98 S70 next.
And an ’03/’04 S60 after that, with the 2.5 engine.
matthew1 » Sperry, excellent summary.
Terry, you used the word reliability which triggered my standard response. Follow that link, then click any Topic title, like First Gen. V70 reliability to see the whole topic.
The MVS Volvo Buyers’ Guide isn’t the last word on Volvos, but it’s got some good info in it.
Generally you want to stay away from 1999-2001 models because of the Volvo Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) fiasco.
Sorry to scare you, but you need “full disclosure” now, not later. Let us know what you do. If you buy a Volvo, we’re here to help with anything we can.
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Last Updated on September 13, 2022
