Brucebo has outlined what to do to take off the camshaft pulley when doing a timing belt change with a ’99 S70 NA where hard fuel lines are in the way of getting the timing belt out. Great write-up with great pictures! Thanks, Bruce.
Brucebo » Success! Finally after getting the crankshaft pulley off. This latter was a major chore, but it needn’t have been. I initially spent all morning building a counterhold tool out of 1″ angle iron. I then immobilized/held the counterhold tool with a come along anchored to the car frame near the rear tire. I then yanked with all my strengh using an 18″ breaker bar, bracing my foot on the jackstand. No Effect. I then ran off to Home Depot and purchased a 2 foot section of 3/4″ galvanized pipe, jacked the car up higher for more head room, placed the pipe over the breaker bar and yanked with all my strength. I felt something give. It turned out the be the counter hold angle iron. It broke. I was beginning to worry that it might be a left handed thread, but further net research pointed to it being a standard right handed thread. I then ran off to A-1 Tool Shed and got some Old Milwaukee … 3/4″ impact wrench that is ($22 rental). I squeezed the trigger and before I even had time to really respond the 30mm nut was spinning free! When removing this nut it helps to have the timing belt currently installed in case the crankshaft rotates. This will roll the camshafts along with it, preventing any valve damage. If the crankshaft does move you can reinstall the nut (now much looser) to turn the crankshaft (clockwise) to align timing marks, and then remove the nut again.
The following picture shows the hard way to remove the crank nut, including the broken counter hold tool.
The hard way to remove the crankshaft nut.
The following picture shows the easy way to remove the crank nut.The easy way to remove the crankshaft pulley nut.
I then removed the four “lug” bolts and the roll pin. Pulley would not come loose. I taped lightly with a hammer. No effect. It was still wedged onto the spindle. I then ran off to Kragen/Schucks/Checker/O’Reilly/CSK Auto and bought a puller for $19. I installed the puller and cranked a few rotations. This was more than was needed. The pulley fell right off, but it also pulled the timing belt crank pinion gear out a half a centimeter or so. This was not much of a problem because the crankshaft pulley nut pushed it back in as it was tightened. Once the puller engages, probably only a few degrees of rotation should break the pulley loose from its friction lock on the spindle. The following picture shows the puller.Harmonic Balancer Puller
The following picture shows the crankshaft pulley, nut, 4 “lug” bolts and the roll pin.Crankshaft pulley, etc.
With the crankshaft pulley off, it was cinch to swap the timing belt.Pulley Off
The following picture shows the new timing belt installed on the pulley-less crankshaft timing belt pinion. Look at all the clearance!!! No scraping your knuckles trying to work it free! Also notice the gear assembly is pulled forward on the splines a little bit, as I mentioned earlier.Crankshaft timing belt gear
To reinstall the pulley, align the holes for the role pin, install the four “lug” bolts lightly, tap in the roll/alignment pin, tighten the “lug” bolts, then reinstall the crankshaft nut. I used my lighter air impact wrench to reinstall the crank nut. I watched it push the pulley/timing belt gear back in as it tighted the nut.
One note on using a 6mm allen wrench to adjust the manual tensioner. This is a tight squeeze getting your hands and wrench in there. It helps a lot to use the wrench style with the rounded tips instead of the square tips. The square tip wrench needs to be aligned exactly before it fits into the hole and this is mildly tedious in the tight space.
The following pictures shows me using a mirror to check the intake camshaft alignment marks.Checking timing marks.
I buttoned everything back up, installed the serpentine belt, started the engine and she pured like a kitten.
Timing belt weekend: ’99 S70 non-turbo. Part 2.
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