Bad Used Volvo Purchase

Let’s talk about how to not buy a bad Used Volvo

Follow the Fallout of a Bad Used Volvo Purchase

This is a good example of what not to do when buying a used Volvo. What TO do when buying a used Volvo? Read our Volvo Buyer’s Guide, ask questions here in the MVS forum, and have the car checked by a mechanic, preferably an independent Volvo shop.)

The author jamesspringer went perhaps 1/3 of the way to really knowing what he should have known and doing what he should have done. He drove it briefly, checked oil, checked transmission fluid, and looked for oil on the engine. Better than nothing, but not a well-rounded pre-purchase checkup.

jamesspringer » My wife wrecked her car and we needed a replacement quickly. I am self employed and business hasn’t been good lately so her income has been pretty much our only income. She has to be able to get to work. I spent a couple days going over the classifieds; sold some stuff and borrowed money to get her a cheap car. I found an ad for a 93 Volvo 850 GLT. I went and saw it (fairly nice interior/exterior). I drove it and other than idling a bit rough at first, it drove fine; had decent pickup and no funny noises. I checked the oil (full; a bit dark but not black) and transmission fluid (actually over full and pink on the stick). No oil leaks around the valve cover I could see. I ended up buying the car.

Now the bad news: The ad was apparently fraudulent. Ad claimed everything in working order and 200k miles (also claimed turbo charged but that wasn’t even an option in 93)

1) The odometer is not working. I don’t know how I missed it before but it reads 218.5k and didn’t budge all the way home.
I found how to read the ECU on this site (thanks, very helpful) and the true milage is 228,376.

2) Transmission (auto) has an error code 124: Faulty Mode Selector or shorted to ground. I removed the switch and cleaned it up to verify the buttons weren’t stuck; shook it to hear if anything was rattling loose inside and now I have to borrow an ohm meter to check if the switch is bad. I’ll update when I do that.

3) ABS has five error codes: 444 – No power to hydraulic unit valves
312 – Right front wheel sensor open or shorted
313 – Left rear wheel sensor open or shorted
213 – No left rear wheel signal on moving off
214 – No right rear wheel signal on moving off

Thankfully, no engine error codes. I followed the directions for reading the codes and all went as it should but it won’t let me clear the codes. I pressed the button for 7 seconds. The LED went off. When it came back on, I immediately pressed it and held for another 7 seconds. The LED went off and then blinked 4 times. When I pressed it to read the codes, they were still there. What did I do wrong? How do I clear these codes?

While the car ran OK during the test drive, that wasn’t the case when I came back 8 or 9 hours later with a tag to drive it home. The engine missed and spluttered all the way home. It had NO pickup or power at all and bogged down to 40 mph going up even a modest incline. It stalled at a stoplight and it took a long time to get it started again. It GOBBLED gas at a fantastic rate using almost a quarter tank to go 45 or 50 miles. The transmission wouldn’t shift until the engine was revving at 3500 rpms or more. Needless to say, I was more than a little upset by the time I got home an hour and a half later. I felt lucky to even make it home.

What can I do? What are the chances a simple tune-up will fix the engine issues (plugs, wires, rotor cap)? Will the transmission being overfilled damage it? Could the gas guzzling be due to the faulty mode selector switch?

I feel like a fool. I spent virtually every penny we had on a pile of crap with faulty brakes that doesn’t run right. I am consulting a lawyer about my options but haven’t heard back from him yet. I may not HAVE any options: “Buyer Beware” and all that.

I think I got taken

Last Updated on August 23, 2022