New? Start here. There are 572 Volvo forum users online now. See the forum's active topics. Say hi contact Matthew.
MVS-Amazon link helps MVS!

PCV Job on a Volvo 2.9 Engine

MVS Contributor SuperHerman steps us through a PCV job on a Volvo 2.9 liter 6-cylinder. This applies generally to either B6294x or B6304x family.

This engine powers over a million S80 and XC90 Volvos. If you want an alternate topic to follow for this PCV on a 2.9, check this out. Otherwise here is the link to this Volvo forum PCV job 2.9.

Symptoms of a Clogged PCV on a 2.9

Drove home and smelled oil. Checked under the hood and there was oil everywhere. That sucked. The engine bay was pretty damn immaculate when I bought it. Now it’s covered in oil. Research says I need to change the PCV breather box. Looked into it and decided I don’t know if I have the time/skill to do it. Some people state that it’s a $500-800 job due to labor. Called the Volvo dealer near me and they quoted $1400. wtf. So now i’m trying to figure out if I should attempt to do this or ask my regular mechanic who isn’t too sure of Volvos. How difficult is this job and is there a guide somewhere? I changed oil recently to synthetic and I have a very slow drip that has developed around oil pan (i think or close by) and I think having a clogged PCV is the reasoning.

PCV Procedure on a 2.9

SuperHerman » I have not done the PCV on your car, but I did do it on a non-turbo 2004 S80 2.9 and on a 2004 XC90 T6 (plus on a few other 2.4 cars). They are pretty much the same. Nothing too difficult, just have to remove a few items. Approach the project like you are changing the intake manifold gasket – after this point everything is there. If I recall one of the FireBox bolts (lower pass side) is hard to get to and some remove additional pieces. I had no issue, just used a swivel and extension 1/4″. Most of the work is done with a 1/4″ ratchet, 10mm swivel, 10mm socket and various extensions – hose clamps are 7mm or single use. The oil pipe bolt is either 12mm or 13mm and I think the banjo is 17mm. These two are tricky as they are upside and not easy to see – so approach with a mirror – see what you have then remove. I warn you of cross threading now and later.

Summary of VIDA (Sorry for the format – but I am summarizing their steps and they are lumped together at times):

  1. Disconnect battery, remove plastic charge pipe and hose to charge air cooler, remove intake air pipe for the air cleaner from above radiator connection.
  2. Release fuel pressure and remove injector cover then fuel rail mounting screws then pull entire rail with injectors (put in plastic bag or cloth and flip aside – also vacuum area and/or blow area first then spray with WD40 or PB Blaster or what ever you have). At some point here you need to detach the fuel line from the nozzle pipe per VIDA, but I think I just flipped it up and kept it as a unit – you will have to see when you get there – I just don’t remember clearly.
  3. Remove dipstick pipe mount on intake (I am pretty sure it is underneath the manifold – just follow pipe and you will see) – the next bolt is tricky – it is a banjo if I recall and it attaches a pipe to the intake – it is pretty close to the dipstick bolt. The hardest part is putting it back on – here if I recall I did it before I fully tightened the intake bolts so I had more wiggle room. Just make sure you start it by hand and do not cross thread! Tighten it up when you have the manifold fully installed so the hoses line up nicely.
  4. Disconnect the throttle body connector and remove the charge pipe from the throttle body. How you attack this depends where your clamp is hiding. If I recall mine was pointing to your right from where you are standing – so drivers side – I ran a very long extension near the air filter area and I think a 7mm socket – it was a straight shot. On one car it was facing the radiator – here I loosened it and swung it around so I could approach it from the side. You may need a mirror and extra light to locate where the clamp is. 5) Remove the intake – remove top screws and the outer screws for the bottom – then loosen the rest of the bottom screws – at this point they need not come out and will hold the manifold. Once completed look to see what other hose is in the way and take care of those. Then lift the manifold off. If you are going to change the intake manifold gasket you will have to take off all the screws.

Basically – take off the snap on engine cover and remove the top plastic piping – I would add the air box so you know you have everything – plus you can pull much of the plastic and airbox out as one unit. Then disconnect the intercooler charge pipe that attaches to the radiator and runs to the throttle body. Next take off the two passenger side intake manifold bolts that are on the front passenger side corner (dipstick and that banjo bolt). Then you have to remove the fuel rail. Then the intake manifold.

At this point everything is right there in front of you and if I recall the fire box has two screws securing it to the block. You may have a couple of hose clamps on the PCV hoses.

On assembly make sure to clean the throttle body (look up proper technique) and clean up the intake manifold holes where the injectors go – then lightly oil them so the injectors go in smoothly and sand and grit doesn’t damage the seals.

When you are done there is a stubby hose/pipe that goes from the fire box to the block. When you pull this out you have to make sure the drain hole going into the block is clear. These get gunked up pretty good. Pull stuff out – do not push stuff in. Some people blow air into the port and listen for bubbles (assuming you still have oil in the pan). What I did was cleaned out as best as I could, drained the oil and left drain plug out with catch pan below and sprayed carb cleaner in there and then rinsed with gas. I tilted the car so that any fluid would go to the drain plug hole and out the car and not puddle in the oil pan. The object is to flush out any chunks you may have dislodged. I took my oil/gas mix and sent it to recycling. You will need some of the single use clamps for portions of the PCV system – order them – do not use hose clamps on anything you cannot see – you will regret it if you have a leak. Many of the sites have “suggestions” that tell you what the single use hose clamp is – I strongly urge you to buy them – it may add $10, but you will not have problems with leaks and the job will go quicker. You may have success reusing the originals – your choice your time and money. You can tighten these clamps with a wire cutter if you are careful and do not have the specialty crimp tool. Pay attention and take pictures and you will be fine. It may take you a day if you are cautious. If you do it for a living I would say two hours tops.

I think there may be a few videos out there on it, if not look up intake removal, alternator removal, air conditioner removal, radiator removal and you will see how to remove many of the parts. On the intercooler charge pipe that connects to the radiator – you may need to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the plastic (be careful) so you can get it off and then again to get it on – a little PB Blaster type spray helps also.

Volvo 2.9 PCV Job

Subscribe to the MVS Newsletter

The MVS Volvo Newsletter is a once-a-month email delivered to your email. It’s simple to unsubscribe at any time if you change your mind.

Visit The Official Volvo Cars Website

Leave a Reply