Longtime MVS Contributor Oragex serves up a simple fix for an annoying problem. If you have a squeaky armrest — center armrest — in your P2 Volvo, this is 1.5 minutes of your time that I think you’ll agree is well spent.
So your battery might be old but you’re not sure exactly its age, and the temperature might be around Absolute Zero. You turn the Volvo key a bit, saying a prayer…
With record cold temperatures on the US east coast this week, now’s a good time for a topic on how to deal with very cold temperatures.
Besides these specific cases, there’s a Volvo Repair Database category called Winterizing that may help.
Here’s when it goes right
As long as the oil gets a bit warm and the battery stays strong enough it will have no issues firing up. I wonder how low it would go, a -40C shouldn’t be hard to find up there?
The wind chill doesn’t matter, but that’s impressive to get a good start at -28C
Right oil, good battery, good ignition parts.
Annnd the rest… like I think I need a new battery!
How to know if your Volvo needs a new battery, how to test the battery, how to get the right fit, and where to buy it.
New MVS Volvo Forums member Durenol‘s question:
We have a 2007 XC70 that isn’t driven much and I think the battery is dying. The cabin lights always come on when I open the door, but often trying to start just gives a loud rapid clicking noise from the engine compartment, all the lights dim and the dashboard clock resets to –:–. After jumping and driving around for an hour it starts fine, but if left to sit for a few days it dies again.
MVS Contributor Brian’s advice:
A good indicator of quality is the length of the full replacement warranty which is the amount of time a battery will be replaced free of charge before being pro-rated, then after that consider the total length of the warranty including the extended pro-rated time, which can vary between 1-3 years past the full replacement warranty.
An old school constant current charger left plugged in will eventually kill the battery from overcharging.
A modern smart charger will when the battery is full continue to charge so slowly that it just keeps the battery full nothing more, a trickle charge. Such a charger can be left plugged in indefinitely ensuring that you always have a full battery without having to keep track of it. You could of course just charge the battery every now and then. Whichever works best for you. Many smart chargers are supplied with a cable and socket that can be installed into the car for easy and convenient connection of the charger.
Give me back my bunwarmers!
Bad Thermostat: Cabin Heat Never Gets Hot
Seat memory Q:
Anyone with seat memory skills? When I purchased my 06 S80 a few months ago memory 1 was the only one working. Then that stopped and it switched to mem 2 works for seats and mirrors, and 3 works for seat only. The key fob memory (where it resets to whichever key fob is used to unlock the car) is also erratic.
So – any ideas what might cause this and a possible solution?
Seat memory A:
Just to assure you are giving the memory system a chance: On that car the memory system requires that the car be locked and unlocked to trigger the memory acquisition and motion. The car only knows which remote because you open the locked car. Once driven and adjustments are made then locking the car with the remote and the computers shutting down sets the positions to storage. Now if the seat and mirrors are adjusted with another remote used to enter car then when your remote is used to enter it will know to go to your remote’s set positions. Avery common issue with the system is that a car is parked in garage at home and not locked as garage door is closed after you drive in. The store and car entry remote acknowledgement doesn’t happen when no locking and then unlocking occurs. Another issue arises if only one remote is used in that the car may leave home garage driven with one key by a second person. They lock car at some location and then unlock and drive to another location and lock again. Now their positions they adjusted when they drove car are set. You get in car at home and have to move seat and mirrors.
Sounds like bad system. In Europe home garages are rare and people lock cars when parked on street or in an apartment parking garage so making a system that triggers on locking and unlocking seems right.
MVS member hu5ker555 shows us how to fix the lumbar support on a Volvo S60 seat on his 2008 S60 2.5T with 168k miles.
So, I was leaning back in my beloved S60 seat when the lumbar support (which I always have cranked all the way up) broke. It is the manual lumbar support operated by the wheel on the side of the seat. After doing some digging around, I found that the likely culprit was a snapped cable.
Surprisingly, I was able to fix it without removing the seat, and without fully removing the seat cover. The seat cover comes apart quite easily at the base. There is a long bar that fits into a channel at the base of the top seat cover. It basically connects the front and rear part of the seat fabric. From there, it was fairly easy to shimmy the leather up enough to see the inner workings. Sure enough, one of the two cable ends had snapped off.
I used some wire cutters to snip of the end of the wire where the remains of the broken cable stop were. Then I threaded it through the hole in the metal seat frame. Next, the trick was to fasten a new cable stop onto the wire. I ended up using a very small ferrel clamp from True Value. It was difficult to get a good crimp on it, but I used my wire cutting crimpers since the surface area on the crimpers is small (more force applied). It seems to be holding and I was able to get the leather seat cover back in place without too much issue.
Hope this helps.
MVS Contributor j-dawg:
I need to load a ton of junk into my car soon, and I couldn’t find any info on the intertubes, so I measured its cargo area dimensions and put them in this picture.
My car has basically no rear cargo options, eg: grocery nets, cargo bay cover, dog cage, third row seats, rear gun emplacement, hyperdrive, etc etc. These things may affect available cargo space.
Please note that these are dimensions at the floor and at the points measured on the door, ie: they are the maximum dimensions. The door tapers as it goes up from the bottom and out from the center, and the car’s cargo area tapers as it goes up from the floor.
I want to fold the front passenger seat as well, but I can’t figure out how to get the headrest out of the front passenger’s seat so it can fold flat. There are supposed to be buttons somewhere in the backrest, but I couldn’t feel them with my thumbs. (I actually had no idea the seat even folded until this week.) Once I’ve got that, I’ll do a similar picture for that area. Any hints as to how to remove the headrest?
MVS member tabormeister posted a great writeup in the Volvo Forum about the different types of Volvo steering wheels for P2 Volvos, compatibility, and how to mix-and-match parts from them to get the steering wheel you want.
Hi there. If you, like me, are thinking about upgrading/swapping your P2 car’s steering wheel, this thread is for you.
1999–2006 Volvo S80 (P23)
2001–2009 Volvo S60 (P24)
2001–2007 Volvo V70 (P26E)
2002–2007 Volvo XC70 (P26L)
2003– Volvo XC90 SUV (P28)
All this research was done in order to stick a P2 XC90 3-spoke wood wheel in my 2006 V70.
There are a few separate wheels that you might want to upgrade to. If you have the stock S60 wheel for instance, you might want to upgrade to an XC90 style wood wheel, or a leather R-style wheel. R-style leather wheels come in black leather, XC90 style wheels come in tan or black leather, with a few different types of wood to choose from. My car has the oak interior, so that’s the wheel I went with.
MVS member ppitts’ 2001 S60 has a interior drivers side door handle that keeps popping its anchor off of the handle (actuator). Is the only solution a $450 new panel? No!
I have a 2001 S60 that needs a new interior drivers side door handle. The actuator keep jumping out of the groove in the handle. I have taken the panel off and re-set it several times, but if you open it the wrong way- it pops right back out. Called to check on replacement handle mechanism and was told that I will have to replace the whole door panel- $450.00. Seems crazy- just wondering if I’m being jerked around.
This post got me thinking about seat leather. Sleddriver:
My front seat leather is pathetic. Even using Lexol on a regular basis didn’t help.
Let that sink in. Even with care*, the leather failed.
Mine too. I used “Eagle” brand (automotive) leather conditioner for years starting when I got my 850 in the summer of 2000. My 850’s drivers seat is a wreck of split leather (graphite) and exposed foam.
MVS Moderator MadeInJapan shows us how to fix peeling pillar trim with double sided tape. It’s a simple yet brilliant solution. Like the famous DIY for interior door trim, it’s another in a long line of inexpensive fixes to make our Volvos look like new again.
I have been racking my brain on how to fix these. Apparently the only “true” fix is to take them off and to an upholstery shop and let them recover them- or you could get the earlier plastic pieces from a donor car. At least that’s what I had been told. But I think I found the fix. And it’s not that hard. First you have to buy a roll of this stuff.
If you’ve never removed the a-pillar trim pieces it’s a piece of cake– Make sure your car is turned off and the key is out of the ignition. There are airbag curtains under the a-pillars. Now, just pull from the top of the pieces towards the middle of the car and they come lose. Just be aware that there is a plastic strap about 5-6 inches down from the top that you’ll need to retain…it twists 180 degrees to release from the metal slot that it attaches to on the body of the car. Putting it back is the same as the removal, just in reverse. The strap is there to keep the a-pillar trim from hitting you if/when the air curtain deploys.
Longtime MVS Contributor Erik shows us in photos how to Remove/Install Third Row Seat – Volvo 850 Wagon. It’s not a technically difficult process, just follow these steps to remove or install your 3rd row seat and you’ll do fine.
I couldn’t find a good online guide for this job, there are some videos that are kinda a hassle and the really nice DIY from ozbrick.com seems to have finally disappeared. So I carefully documented removal from my wrecked wagon. I also took some pics to help visualize the steps, not all of them are ideal but they help.
The majority of this job involves removing the seat belt by detaching at the three anchor points (1, 2 and 3 in pic) and the seat belt buckles (4 in pic):
MVS Forums member VFLXC90 had a wet carpet disaster in his XC90. This is how he tracked it down and fixed it.
The XC 90 had wet carpet this summer. I youtubed the sunroof drain fix. The drains were clear?
The carpet was soaked. When I ran the A/C the condensation wasn’t dripping out under the XC. The drain line was plugged. That was the easy fix. Drying out the carper was the hard part.
If you look in the area of the gas pedal to the right of it. You can see a small black flex able hose behind the center console trim pane. That’s the hose you want to pull out and stick a close hanger through to clean out the clog. The trim panel on the side of the console will pull off. Just grab it in a corner and give it a hard pull. Then work it from left to right pulling. It will come off. Just pull it.
How to fix your power seat switches on 1993-2000 Volvos… 850, S70, V70, C70 and XC70. This is a common problem with these Volvos.
MVS contributor songzunhuang posted this great DIY with photos on how he fixed his 1998 V70’s seat switches.
So I have been dealing with a stuck power seat on the passenger side. The front part of the seat was stuck on the full high position. The motors seemed to be ok, and the seat was working in all other directions. So I figured that the power seat microswitch must be malfunctioning. Before buying a new switch, I thought I’d try to clean it out. It turns out it was pretty easy so I thought I’d share the process. All I had to do is spray the contact with a little electronics cleaner and it worked!
So the seat switch assembly is actually pretty easy to take off once you release the plastic zip ties holding it to the frame.
1) Look under the front edge of the seat and you’ll see the control wire fasten by a few zip ties. cut those and you’ll be able to release the whole assembly.
2) Lift the forward part of the seat up and then slide back to release.
From the back side, you can see the circular areas that clip onto the seat and hold it all in place.
From the picture above, you can see the location of the screws.
3) Remove the T25 screws and you can slide up the whole assembly.
4) You’ll have to cut two more zip ties before you lift the switch out of the housing. Remove the switch housing and you’ll see some philips head screws.
5) After you remove the philips heads screws you’ll see the micro switches.
6) I used a screw driver to pop up the switch case enough the spray the cleaner inside, operated the switch a few times and then the switch worked! Since all was well, I just put it all back together. I was surprised how easy this was to do.
MVS Volvo Forums member Ludermilch posts a beautiful DIY writeup with dozens of photos on how to fix V70, S70 and XC70 door panels that are bubbling and delaminating from the doors… a door vinyl fix. This Volvo DIY is so big and awesome it comes in two parts. This vinyl delamination occurred on 1998-2000 S70, V70, and XC70 Volvos in North American model years, but may be applicable for other Volvos.
This is a write up of my solution to the ugly door panels that the 98-00 Volvo’s suffer from. It may not be for everyone and improvements to this method are welcome and wanted.
Many of us have this in our cars.
The manufacturing process failed to completely adhere the vinyl to the foam in a few places and when the vinyl began to shrink from heat and age, it pulled away from the contours of the panel and the foam glued to the fiberboard.
The area where the handle is glued together has very strong glue. Take time and care cutting this area. Only cut loose the grey handle from the fiberboard and the black plastic. Don’t cut the black plastic from the fiberboard. The grey plastic part will pop out of the panel once you free it from the glue. Remove all the glue from the fiberboard/handle, because when replacing the handle, the fit is different and needs to set lower.