MVS Contributor Zachary shows us how to replace the Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub in a AWD P2 Volvo:
I am happy to share photos and details of the process to replace your rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2001 Volvo V70XC (same as the XC70 in the next few subsequent years, and also XC90 applicable. This is for AWD models with a splined hub on the rear axle.
It’s important to remove both sections of the brake assembly here, as it will be easiest to remove it all from the Rotor this way. If you have a new flat and smooth rotor, you may be able to get away with just removing the 13mm bolts and sliding the whole assembly off. Otherwise you’ll have to disassemble the housing with the brake pads, which also requires removing the metal wire tension clip on front of housing.
- Tire Iron 19mm socket/ or breaker wrench; (for lug nuts to remove rim/wheel)
- flathead screwdriver and 7mm allan key wrench (for brakes caliper disassembly)
- 13mm Socket (for brakes)
- 14mm socket for center of hub bolt
- 17mm socket/wrench for four wheel hub bolts
- Hub/Bearing Puller Kit (for older rusty hubs.)
- Optional 18mm to remove some of the suspension to reach lower rear hub bolt if you don’t have certain
Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Procedure
I’ve done hubs on a few different vehicles and I was expecting it to be a more difficult job on this P2 Volvo, but this was actually quite an easy one. I’m sharing to dispel any anxiety for those who are curious or concerned about what it takes. You can do it!
1. Jack up vehicle until tire is not quite off floor (so you can loosen lugs without tire spinning). Once all lugs are loose, jack up car into air significant distance off floor.
2. Secure jack stand in steady position beneath under carriage jack placement. Lower jack and continue to remove lug nuts and wheel completely.
3. Remove brake caliper assembly[/b] with brake pads from Rotor. Remove brake line from brackets and clips and push out of the way.
a. Use flathead to pry plastic caps from brake housing. Use 7mm Allan wrench to loosen and pull out bolts.
Use 13mm socket to remove bolts from brake caliper assembly connected to suspension.
Its important to remove both sections of the brake assembly here, as it will be easiest to remove it all from the Rotor this way. If you have a new flat and smooth rotor, you may be able to get away with just removing the 13mm bolts and sliding the whole assembly off. Otherwise you’ll have to disassemble the housing with the brake pads, which also requires removing the metal wire tension clip on front of housing. Be sure to hang your removed Caliper assembly with a small tight bungee cord against the strut to make sure the brake line isn’t strained.
4. Remove Rotor:[/b] locate guide pin on front of Rotor, and remove with 10mm deep socket. Remember to release parking brake after you remove this 10mm guide pin bolt.
(There are drum brakes under this rotor. Don’t pull the Rotor while the parking brake is on, or it will feel like there are springs holding it on. Guess why? Cause there are!)
Pull Off Rotor.
5. Remove wheel hub bolts: four 17mm bolts securing Wheel Hub, located behind suspension housing. and one 14mm bolt in the middle front of hub assembly (which screws into axel spline.)
a. The four 17mm bolts on rear of suspension should be easily identified. They align with the Hub assembly and can be seen coming through from the front of hub assembly housing. The upper two 17mm bolts are easy to get to. The lower bolt toward vehicle front is easy to access as well. They are pretty tight so get a snug socket and short breaker if you have one. The 17mm bolt that is lower, and toward rear of vehicle has a very tight access port, so to speak. I have a variety of twisty wrenches and sockets and I was able to loosen it without much trouble. But if you need more access, you can remove lower suspension which clogs its access. Use 18mm socket there.
b. The one 14mm bolt in the center of the wheel hub isn’t terribly tight.
I stuck two extensions into the hub bolt holes and secured the assembly from spinning with a long 22 wrench and then removed the 14mm bolt easily.
6. Either pull the hub assembly straight out, or get out your hub/bearing puller kit. In my experience you’ll need a hub puller. The old hubs tend to rust onto the housing, and you don’t want to damage your axle spline. The best thing to do is to attach hub puller to the hub, and push that center bolt right onto your axle spline, which slowly un-marries the two. Be careful to use a socket or something solid between your bolt puller “pusher bolt” so that you don’t damage the axle spline as its pushed apart.
6. Clean the suspension housing opening once your old hub pops off the axle. Be sure to also clean up the axle spline with a soft wire brush. And be sure to scrape around the flat surface where your new hub with meet against the suspension housing.
7. Install new hub in the reverse order. Put a little grease on the rear and tip of axle spline. Guide axle spline right into new hub. If you cleaned it well, it should slide right on. Retighten 17mm bolts on rear of suspension housing. Install 14mm bolt to front of wheel bearing/hub assembly to snug up axle spline inside hub assembly, and re-check 17mm bolts in rear.
8. Re-install brakes: which makes it a great opportunity to replace, pads and rotor if needed.
9. Attach wheel, remove jack stand, lower car and road test!