How to repair your roof / windshield trim on your volvo.
If you’re curious as to what is needed to perform repair work to your Volvo’s roof / windshield trim then look no further. MVS forum member Maxbaby has taken the time to provide a good write-up with pictures of how to repair the roof/windshield trim on the 850. Thanks!
MVS Forum Member Maxbaby says:
This post started out based in part on the one over at Bay13 where they finish by painting the trim. I do not like the look of that finished product myself and liked the smoother appearance of blackout tape for chrome. I was tired of a large strip of that blackout covering on my trim flapping every time I washed the car, so I got busy today… I purchased a roll of Trimbrite adhesive Blackout tape ( 1 3/8″ X 20′ ).
1) Standing beside your side mirror and looking at the bottom portion of trim on the inside edge laying on the windshield, slide your fingers underneath so you are pulling it toward yourself and lifting approximately 1cm off the glass, so you can just get your fingertips underneath. Then pull vertically upward to release the trim. It takes a good effort, but be controlled, because you don’t want to reef on it and bend the strip. You will hear a “pop” as the first clip releases. Then work your fingers along the strip, popping each clip until you have release it all the way to the back of the car.
MVS Forum Member byeboy replied:
The trim on the roof of my 97 850R had completely peeled down to the aluminum strips. I removed mine (simple enough, except I BROKE MY WINDSHIELD by letting the screwdriver ‘flick’ against the edge of it!!!). I then cleaned, then sprayed mine with Plasti Coat (Lowe’s), and it came out beautifully with a Satin Black “slightly Rubbery” finish. I have pressure washed the car dozens of time since, and no problems except one spot, that had the coating scratched off during windshield install…easy enough touch up, just tape and shoot that area again (but you have to remove the masking tape quick, before the coating develops it film strength. You can also skip the masking, as adjacent areas will ‘self peel’ at any seams…but the tin overspray can be messy to get off…so I taped.
I also considered painting the entire hood, roof, and trunk lid with the coating, and did a trial on the outboard portion (past the trim rails) of the roof. Looked good, but was difficult to wipe dry because it ‘grabs’ the micro fiber towels I use. (the trim rails have calmed down now, and are not a ll grabby anymore). The stuff does simply peel off, so removal goes very fast and easy…unless you applied too thin. So I went with John Deere satin black (Blitz Black)..which looks 100% better than the blistered original finish, which had worn down to the light grey primer in many areas. I did screw up on the mixing of the Blitz, so the first 1/2 went on beautifully, but the, when I added the hardener too quickly (plus by then the temperature had climbed to 100, and I shot it “en plein aire” (outdoors). I’ve been waiting for our temps to settle down, then I’ll go back and re-shoot the bad 1/2.